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Human foods pets can eat, and how to share them safely

Human foods pets can eat, and how to share them safely

Plenty of what's on your plate is fine for a dog or cat in small, plain amounts — and a few things are genuinely dangerous. Here's the safe list, the hard limits, and the one rule that keeps sharing from unbalancing the diet.

The reputation of table scraps is worse than it deserves and more dangerous than it sounds, both at once.

A good deal of ordinary food is perfectly fine for a dog or cat in small, plain amounts; a short list of common foods is toxic and belongs nowhere near them. Knowing which is which, and holding to one rule about quantity, is all it takes to share safely.

The ten per cent rule comes first

Whatever you share is a treat, and treats should stay under about a tenth of the day's calories.

The other nine tenths is a complete, balanced diet, because that's where the vitamins and minerals an animal actually needs are measured out. Share past that and you aren't topping up a diet, you're replacing it with something that was never formulated to be one. The treat budget matters more than the specific food.

Cats change the picture, too. A cat is an obligate carnivore — it runs on meat and takes little interest in the fruit and vegetables a dog will happily eat. For a cat, a scrap of plain cooked meat or fish is the treat that makes sense; a green bean isn't harmful, just pointless.

Foods that are usually fine, plain and in moderation

Plain cooked lean meat — chicken, turkey, beef — with no bones, skin or seasoning, is the safest thing to share with either species.

So is a little cooked egg, and cooked boneless fish such as salmon. For dogs, most plain vegetables are welcome: carrot, green beans, peas, plain cooked pumpkin or sweet potato. Plain cooked rice or oatmeal sits well on an upset stomach.

Fruit is a dog thing more than a cat thing, and a few are good: apple without the core or pips, banana, blueberries, seedless watermelon flesh. Small amounts — fruit is sugar, and sugar is calories. None of this is a meal; all of it is a topping on a diet that already does the real work.

A few of these earn their place beyond being harmless. Carrot and green beans are close to calorie-free, which makes them the obvious treat for a dog on a diet that still expects something. A spoon of plain pumpkin is genuinely useful for a mildly loose or constipated stomach. And plain cooked chicken is the highest-value training reward most dogs will ever meet, which means a very small piece buys a great deal of attention.

Plain is the whole trick

Almost everything that turns a safe food dangerous is what we add to it.

Onion and garlic are toxic and hide in gravy, stuffing and seasoning. Salt, butter and rich sauces upset stomachs and pile on calories. A cooked bone can splinter, and fried food invites the kind of pancreas flare-up that ends at the vet. The rule is simpler than a list: share the food before it reaches the pan and the seasoning, not the version off your plate.

Take the packaged versions seriously too. Tinned fish in brine is salty and in oil is fatty; in spring water it's fine. Peanut butter is fine unless it contains xylitol, which some brands now use and which is dangerous to dogs — so the jar has to be read rather than assumed. Stock cubes, gravy granules and most ready-made sauces are built on onion and salt. And anything labelled sugar-free is worth checking for the same reason as the peanut butter.

Foods that aren't toxic but cause trouble anyway

A middle category gets less attention than it should, because nothing on it will poison an animal and all of it lands pets at the vet.

Fatty trimmings, skin, sausages and anything fried can set off pancreatitis, which is painful, sometimes serious, and disproportionately common after Christmas and barbecue season. Corn cobs and large fruit stones cause obstructions and routinely need surgery. Cooked bones splinter; raw ones are debated and still break teeth. A sudden large quantity of anything rich produces a night of diarrhoea in an animal used to one steady food.

Dairy sits here too. Many adult dogs and cats are lactose-sensitive, so a lick of plain yoghurt or a small piece of hard cheese suits some animals and loosens others — and cheese in particular is far more calorific than the size of the piece suggests, which makes it a poor daily habit even for the dogs that tolerate it.

None of this is a reason to panic over a dropped chip. It's a reason to treat the rich end of the table as the part you don't share, rather than assuming that anything short of the toxic list is fine.

The foods to never share

A handful of common foods are toxic even in small amounts, and no quantity is a safe treat: chocolate, grapes and raisins, onion, garlic and chives, xylitol (the sweetener in sugar-free gum and many baked goods), macadamia nuts, alcohol, caffeine, and raw bread dough.

Grapes and xylitol in particular do serious harm fast. The full list, with what each one does and what to do if it's eaten, is on the toxic-foods page — worth reading once so the dangerous ones are already familiar.

How to share without creating a beggar

There's a behavioural cost to sharing that has nothing to do with nutrition, and it's the reason so many households end up with a dog at the table.

Food handed over from a plate, during a meal, in response to attention, teaches exactly the lesson it looks like: staring works. Food put in the animal's own bowl afterwards, or used as a training reward in a different room at a different time, teaches nothing of the sort — and it's the same piece of chicken either way.

So make it a rule the whole household holds, because one person who gives in trains the animal for everyone. Nothing comes off the table while people are at it. Scraps worth saving go in the bowl at the next meal. Guests are told, kindly and in advance, because they'll otherwise be delighted to help.

The same applies to counters and worktops. A dog that finds food up there once will check for the rest of its life, and a cat that's fed from the worktop has been given permission to be on it. That isn't about the food's safety; it's about not building a habit you'll spend years undoing.

How to introduce anything new

Add one new food at a time, in a small amount, and watch the next day's stools and appetite before offering more — that way a food that doesn't agree is obvious rather than a mystery mixed in with three others.

Dairy is the classic surprise: many adult dogs and cats are lactose-sensitive, so a lick of plain yoghurt suits some and loosens others. Anything richer than usual, given in quantity, upsets a stomach that's used to one steady food, which is also why changing the main diet is done gradually rather than overnight.

Two groups deserve more caution than the average animal. A pet on a prescription diet for kidney, urinary, liver or allergy problems can have the whole point of that diet undone by the wrong scrap, so ask the vet what's compatible before sharing anything. And a pet being investigated for a food allergy needs its diet kept genuinely clean during the trial, which means nothing at all from the table for the duration — a single piece of cheese can cost you the answer.

What human foods can dogs eat safely?

Plain cooked lean meat with no bones or seasoning, cooked egg, boneless cooked fish, and most plain vegetables — carrot, green beans, peas, plain pumpkin or sweet potato. A little fruit is fine too: apple without pips, banana, blueberries, seedless watermelon. All in small amounts, as a treat rather than a meal.

Can cats eat human food?

A cat is an obligate carnivore, so the human food that makes sense for it is a scrap of plain cooked meat or fish. Fruit and vegetables aren't harmful but hold little for a cat. Keep it plain and small, and never as a substitute for a complete cat food.

How much human food can I give my pet?

Keep all treats and extras under about a tenth of the day's calories, with the rest a complete balanced diet. More than that and you start replacing the nutrition the animal actually needs with food that was never formulated to provide it.

Why does plain matter so much?

Because most of what makes a safe food dangerous is added in the kitchen. Onion and garlic are toxic and hide in seasoning, gravy and stock cubes; salt, butter and sauces upset stomachs and add calories; cooked bones splinter. Share food before the pan and the seasoning.

Is cheese or yoghurt safe for pets?

For some. Many adult dogs and cats are lactose-sensitive, so a small piece of hard cheese or a lick of plain yoghurt suits some animals and loosens others — introduce it alone and see. Cheese is also far more calorific than the piece looks, which makes it a poor daily habit.

What foods aren't toxic but still cause problems?

Fatty trimmings, skin, sausages and fried food, which can set off pancreatitis; corn cobs and large fruit stones, which cause obstructions needing surgery; cooked bones, which splinter; and any sudden large quantity of something rich, which produces a bad night in a stomach used to one steady food.

How do I share food without teaching my dog to beg?

Put it in the bowl afterwards, or use it as a training reward at a different time, rather than handing it over from the table during a meal. It's the same piece of chicken; only one version teaches the dog that staring works. Tell guests in advance, because one person giving in trains the dog for everyone.

Which common foods are dangerous for pets?

Chocolate, grapes and raisins, onion, garlic and chives, xylitol (a sweetener in sugar-free gum, baking and some peanut butters), macadamia nuts, alcohol, caffeine and raw bread dough. These are toxic even in small amounts. The toxic-foods page lists what each does and what to do if one is eaten.

Can I share food with a pet on a prescription diet?

Ask the vet first — the wrong scrap can undo the whole point of a kidney, urinary, liver or allergy diet. And during a food-allergy trial, nothing from the table at all for the duration, because a single piece of cheese can cost you the result.